Beauty for Everybody

Given that spring is finally upon us, what with todays almost 50 degree temperatures and optimistic forecast for the rest of the week, I thought it prudent to begin posting about Spring fashion and how to make it work in your everyday lives. Every season we see thousands of looks walk the runways and it can be a daunting task to try to decipher everything that is expected of us. Because the weather is not quite warm enough for chiffon dresses and strappy sandals, today we are going to discuss the beauty trends for Spring 2011. Pat McGrath and her team always offer up a huge selection of looks from dramatic smokey eyes and strong red lips to minimalist beauty with almost nude faces. Here are some of my favorites for this season and my tips on how to accomplish them on your own.

Every Season, Marc Jacobs is probably the biggest trend setter, at least here in the states, so his show is always the perfect jumping off point. For this season, he kicked off the major lean towards 70's glamor that took over just about every fashion week following. For the beauty, a smoldering, smokey eye is the best way to amp up floaty dresses and airy attitude. You'll have to make sure your lids are primed well first. Once they are, the best way to get solid color like this is to use a smaller brush and press the powder onto the lid, rather than brushing it. Don't be afraid to give it more than one layer. If you're stingy with it, it'll look cheap. Buy a pallet with dark, metallic colors like bronze and gunmetal. Use the gold on the lid and the gunmetal in the crease and around the whole eye, even the bottom. Black kohl liner and a few coats of black mascara will finish it off. leaving the face light and natural with a soft pink lip is the way to go so that the eyes can remain the focus. The big hair is definitely a statement and not for the faint of heart but if you think you can handle it, it's actually a great style that wont get ruined by humidity. If you put sponge rollers in your hair the night before, you should be able to use some texturizing products and a good brush (bristles, not plastic) to get this nice big texture. Lacker down the top and sides with some gel, set it all with a good spray, and you're good to go!
Raf Simons always offers graphic minimalism with his collections for Jil Sander (above left) and I absolutely adore it. this graphic pink lip is so easy to do and looks young, chic, and so fresh for spring. I've seen girls try to do bold lips like this in past and where they fail is choosing the right products. A bright gloss is not going to give you the bold statement you are looking for in this. It's really important that you find a good matte lipstick with a matching liner that is sharpenable, not the rolling kind. In order to achieve this nice defined lip, the lip liner is the most crucial step. It gives the strong shape and prevents the lipstick from bleeding out and loosing its definition. It's also best to use a lip brush to fill in the color. That will allow you to put on a comfortable amount without coloring outside the lines. If you're really brave, I'd love to see the bold lip paired with the white eyeliner in Giambatista Valli's show (above right). for this look, you'll need a steady hand a good liquid eyeliner. Clinique makes great gel liners that you'll need an expensive brush to apply but it provides a perfect line and will last all day. For those of you looking to spend a little less, Maybeline makes so nice felt tip marker eyeliners that now come in white and silver, just in time for spring. They're a little more difficult to use but if you're patient and you practice, they get the job done. (I'm also a huge fan of the light pink streaks in her hair.)

 Dior's looks are always a little bolder and only for those of you really looking to get noticed but all the same rules as above apply here as well. a really saturated eyecolor requires stippling and multiple layers. Bold lips need liner and should almost always be matte. While i wouldn't necessarily suggest rocking both everyday, this season really is all about fun. The recession is finally ending and it's time for all of us to start enjoying life again. Whether that includes a fuschia lip, smokey eye, or even pink hair, is really up to you!

Oscar Gold

The Oscars were last night and, as always, the most talked about pieces were in fabric rather than film. We were shown a lot of red (given Valentino's presence on the carpet, the color only seems fitting) and a lot of minimalism. Some of our leading ladies reached new heights with their bold choices and other fell flat.

Cate Blanchett has never had a sour moment on the red carpet but in addition to being my favorite by a long shot last night, this is by far the best she has ever looked. I have a soft spot in my heart for Ricardo Tisci and his work at Givenchy. His past few couture collections have been absolutely breathtaking (if you have a chance, look them up on style.com) and I was beyond excited to see Cate wearing one of my favorite pieces from the Spring show. The color is perfect on her skin tone and hair and I congratulate the stylist who chose this for her because no one could have pulled it off better. The simple hair and lack of jewelry give this beautiful couture gown an understated elegance and a sense of ease that I wouldn't have thought possible. This whole collection was a masterpiece and Cate was my best dressed of the night.





















On the other end of the spectrum, we have Florence Welch. I am sure you will come to learn as I continue this blog I am a major Florence fan and almost always love what she wears. Last night was a rare exception. Before last night, we had only seen her at the VMAs and the Grammy's and for both red carpets, she wore Givenchy Haute Couture and couldn't have looked more stylish. I am not a huge Valentino fan to begin with (I think the house is stuck between ruffles and lace and would do well to drop those things and find ways to carry their girlish philosophy on dressing into the 21st century) and when Florence chose this dreadful piece from their current couture collection, she dropped all the way to worst dressed. Not only do the colors completely wash out her pale skin but they look old. Generally, I like it when designers give clothes a distressed, almost antiqued feel. It helps clothes feel comfortable and wearable instead of precious. However, in a couture collection, we want to see pieces so beautiful we are afraid to touch them. This Valentino dress is yellowed to the point that it looks like something you could purchase at an estate sale and scrap for parts. It did look a little chic on the runway but for Florence's stylist to put it on the red carpet, where she could look so beautiful and glamorous, is a crime punishable by being fired. If there is a job opening, I'd love to submit my resume.

All this being said, I cannot bash Florence's look without offering an alternative. She generally chooses these light, gold and flesh tones that don't always flatter her coloring. She also has a great figure for clothes (tall and thin with just the right amount of curves) and I am a sucker for a red-head.

 Given the opportunity to dress Florence, I would have put her in this gorgeous Reem Acra pre-fall 2011 gown. As I said, she generally wears lighter, fleshier colors, but i think this gunmetal would be stunning on her light skin and her beautifu hair would have given just the right amount of pop. It is much more glamorous than the Valentino which is perfect for the Oscars. This gown would have given her the sophistication i know she is capable of with the rock-star edge that she was lacking last night. With her body, I believe it'd look better on Florence than the model. Hair curled and tosseled, no jewelery, and simple black pumps is all she'd need to make her way back up to the best-dressed lists. Had she wanted to carry a bag, this Alexander McQueen clutch could've add the perfect amount of edge to an elegant and sophisticated gown.

Show Me Your Psycho...

The world's fashion weeks are happening quickly and one of my favorite trends that we are seeing a major number of designers subscribing to is Hitchcockian women. From Kim Novak to Tipi Hedron, catwalks are being drenched in 60's mystery and 40's feminist power.

Suits are a huge change from this years Disco inspired spring collections, chock full of florals and chiffon dresses. I am looking forward to next fall when we will finally again see powerful, sophisticated, smart women. The women in Hitchcock's films are independent and stylish. They all evoke a mysterious sexuality that is always elegant and really entrancing. These looks from Donna Karan and Thomas Mayer at Bottega Venetta are prime examples of the best way to take this Vertigo to the next level. Donna's suit has volume and structure at the same time (not and easy feet) and really shows an amazingly sophisticated sexiness. Thomas Mayer takes the inspiration to a younger, softer client showing a little more color and a little more skin. This light tangerine suit evokes a little Chanel with a touch of deconstruction that brings it to the 21st century. I am praying girls take a cue from him and dress this way next fall.

 Tipi Hedron was a huge style icon in her time and this screenshot from The Birds is a major classic that really made her what everyone still remembers today. Her boxy suits brought real inspiration to other icons like Twiggy and Jackie Onasis. It's always a beautiful moment when designers make reference to this time in fashion when women were strong, fighting for their independence, and making huge change in the world.

Raf Simons at Jil Sander always shows us a strong sense of where fashion is headed with his understated luxury and modern, minimalist aesthetic. His collection for this spring season was a huge moment for Jil Sander when he took couture inspiration and made it look unbelievably easy and casual. He has a nack for creating clothes that are beyond simple but still so luxurious and this pink look from his show just yesterday is iconic of the his house and the Hitchcock trend. The Rear Window briefcase used as a handbag I think is super chic and is such an elegant alternative to the mess of accessories out there right now.


Fashionistas always look to Marc Jacobs set the standard for the rest of the season. New York fashion week happens before anything else and Marc's show is the most sought after ticket in town. He shows something completely different every season because he gets bored easily and the contrast has become his trademark. This look from the show is yet another example of Tipi's influence on the industry. The longer pencil skirt and boxy shirts are so unexpectedly sexy yet elegant. The polka dots add a bit of whimsy that Marc's work always has (He doesn't like to take himself to seriously) and I'm betting we're going to be seeing a lot of them not just on the runways but in departments stores across the country come September.


So whether you're a minimalist or more suited to opulence, Hitchcock's women have given designers inspiration for looks that suit every girl in the world for next fall. I am dying to see how these looks will translate to the streets. the hardest part about working in fashion? Having to wait 6 months to see girls actually wearing the clothes I love so much!